Walter Shaw

Thinking of Christmas

When Rebecca came to visit me in Mexico during my studies there in 1987 we went on a month long travel trip. Just days before Christmas we visited the amazing Mayan ruins in the Yucatan Peninsula called Palenque. Deep in the jungle, this beautifully conserved/reconstructed settlement was a step back in time for us. The closest town was called Palenque and had a population of, surely, under 500. This was the hub for traffic coming and going to see the ruins which was made up of mainly busses and tourists. We arrived on a bus and, after a wonderful stay of just a few days, departed on one as well. We were so impressed with seeing and experiencing these parts of Mexico that we had only been able to know through books.

As we prepared to leave, from the "bus station" (a corner general store - a room maybe 10' x 15' stocked top to bottom with what the locals may need) was trailing a line of people waiting for what I correctly guessed to be tickets for the bus. After a long wait, we did manage to get seats and sought out a cold drink and a bite to eat in a nearby cafe since we were assured of a spot on the bus. Upon our return we began to question the validity of our "reserved seats" as the number outside the store had seemingly doubled, not only in number of people but some of their animals were waiting rather patiently as well. Rebecca and I looked at one another wondering what type of sleigh ride we were in for on the way to Grandma's house.

The bus arrived and surprisingly few people got off, it was one of those old busses you wondered if it was going to make it to the next stop. Filled with anticipation of an eventful ride to Mérida, we squeezed onto the bus and quickly claimed our seats. We made it! These would be our seats and we would indeed be comfortable. Then the others came on, a few chickens, some plants, people, young and old, there were so many I Iooked to see if they were going out the back at the same time that they were boarding in the front. They were not sitting, they were on for the ride and would be standing. Soon the flow came to our seat and continued on past to the front. This bus was now full, to the ceiling!! Next to us was a mom, a four year old girl and an infant all going to stand for what was to be at least a few hour trip? This was going to be a ride.

Like any self respecting Americans, we quickly settled into our space, however cramped it was, and hoped that no one would be crowding us any more than we deemed allowable. Next, we sat in wait to see if the bus was going to indeed move under so much weight. It, in fact, did and we were off. The roads were not your typical long, flat and smooth Texas roads and we were soon rockin' and a rollin' down and around the highway. As the bus warmed with the combination of body and mechanical heat the space began to close in on us, we decided to listen to some music on the Walkman. I remember it well, it was Christmas tape, sparkling voices sang all the favorites and we leaned back to relax and "forget" the questionable sardine can we were riding in. It was a bit odd looking around at all the people trying to keep their balance and their strength while we sat relaxed listening to Christmas Carols in English on a bus in Mexico.

Soon the four year old began to tire and get cranky. Her poor mom couldn't help her as she was fending for herself and the baby. We couldn't help but notice and motioned to the little one to come sit between us and rest. With hesitation she did and wondered what she would do next sitting between these two gringos. I took my headphones and put them on her. Her reaction was one of confusion, surprise and delight all mirrored through two beautiful big, round and deeply dark eyes. I assured her it was okay and her expression flowed from her eyes to form an immense smile from one little round cheek to the other. Her shining face provided the picture and the sleigh bells sneaking from the oversized headphones gave the sound for the perfect Christmas scene. I got up and let the woman sit in my seat for a while to rest her legs. Both the baby and she began to fall off to sleep, the little one continued to listen to Christmas songs in English and Rebecca and I looked at each other, we knew that this was Christmas.